194 lines
6.1 KiB
Markdown
194 lines
6.1 KiB
Markdown
---
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Author: neale
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Email: neale@woozle.org
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License: MIT
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---
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# Project: USB Morse Adapter
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This translates Morse key inputs into USB events,
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either MIDI or MIDI+Keyboard,
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so you can use a computer.
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It is fully compatible with [VBand](https://hamradio.solutions/vband/)
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and anything else that uses the VBand adapter.
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I use this with an Internet morse code repeater I wrote,
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available at https://vail.woozle.org/.
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This project requires an Arduino that can send USB.
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The following should work:
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### Verified Working
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* Seeeduino Xiao **(recommended)**
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* Arduino Micro
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* KeeYees Pro Micro
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### Unverified but should work
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Any USB-capable Arduino should be fine, including:
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* Arduino Leonardo
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* Arduino Zero
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* Adafruit Trinket M0
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* Adafruit GEMMA M0
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* Adafruit Feather M0
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It may also be possible to get this working on a DigiSpark.
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I'm trying to convince Michele Giugliano to try :)
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=== Similar projects
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* Vail user Michele Giugliano's [MorsePaddle2USB](https://github.com/mgiugliano/MorsePaddle2USB),
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which runs on a DigiSpark (attiny85). It only sends keystrokes, so you must keep the Vail
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window focused: you can't switch to other apps and still transimit.
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* Ham Radio Solutions sells a [USB Paddle Interface](https://hamradio.solutions/vband/)
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which appears to be very similar to Michele's project. You must keep the Vail window focused.
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## Step 1: Installation
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#### The Easy Way
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I plan to begin releasing precompiled images for the Seeeduino XIAO.
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You should be able to
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[enter bootloader mode](https://wiki.seeedstudio.com/Seeeduino-XIAO/#enter-bootloader-mode)
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and just drag the `.uf2` file onto the new drive it provides,
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then you're done.
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#### The Other Way
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Install the MidiUSB and Keyboard libraries.
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These are highly popular libraries,
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and there is much better documentation elsewhere on the Internet.
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The code should then build in the Arduino IDE.
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## Step 2: Assmble the circuit
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### For the impatient:
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[Photos of assembled circuit](https://github.com/nealey/vail-adapter/wiki)
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### For the inquisitive:
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Morse code keyers are very simple devices,
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they just connect two wires together.
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You could use a button if you wanted to,
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or even touch wires together.
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The only real complication here is that some browsers
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need to get keyboard events instead of musical instrument events.
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The Vail adapter boots into a mode that sends both keyboard events
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and MIDI messages.
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If it receives a MIDI key release event
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on channel 0
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for note C0,
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it will disable keyboard events.
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Vail sends this "disable keyboard" MIDI event, so as soon as you
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load up Vail, the keyboard events are disabled, and your adapter
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will no longer interfere with your typing.
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If your browser doesn't support MIDI,
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the disable command can't be sent,
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and it keeps on sending keystrokes.
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### Wire up your input device
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Hook a straight key into ground on one side,
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pin 10 on the other.
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It's okay to leave pin 10 disconnected if you don't have a straight key.
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Hook an iambic paddle in ground in the middle,
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pins 11 and 12 on the outside posts.
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It's okay to leave pins 11 and 12 disconnected if you don't have a paddle.
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=== Using a headphone jack
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If you prefer, you can wire a headphone jack up to GND, 11, and 12.
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GND should be the sleeve, 11 the ring, and 12 the tip.
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o --- 12
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|_| --- 11
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| | --- GND
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Make sure any straight key you plug in has a TS adapter (mono plug):
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this will short pin 11 to ground and signal to the Arduino to
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go into straight key mode.
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If you change from an iambic key to a straight key,
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you'll have to reset the adapter by unplugging it from the computer.
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## Step 3: Load the code
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Upload the code contained in this sketch on to your board.
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## Step 4: Test it out
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Make sure it's plugged in to your computer's USB port.
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If you connected pin 9 to ground,
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Open anything where you can type,
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type in "hello", and hit the straight key.
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You should see a comma after your hello.
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Now you can open https://vail.woozle.org/,
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click the "KEY" button once to let the browser know it's okay to make sound,
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and you should be able to wail away on your new USB keyer.
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## Step 5: Debugging
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If you plug in your straight key and it looks like DAH is being held down,
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it means you need to switch the connections to pins 11 and 12.
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If you plug in your straight key and it looks like DIT is being held down,
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it means you need to reset the Arduino to make it detect the key type again.
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# License
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This project is released under an MIT License.
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Copyright © 2020 Neale Pickett
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Copyright © 2013 thomasfredericks
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Permission is hereby granted, free of charge, to any person obtaining a copy of
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this software and associated documentation files (the "Software"), to deal in
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the Software without restriction, including without limitation the rights to
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use, copy, modify, merge, publish, distribute, sublicense, and/or sell copies of
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the Software, and to permit persons to whom the Software is furnished to do so,
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subject to the following conditions:
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The above copyright notice and this permission notice shall be included in all
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copies or substantial portions of the Software.
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The software is provided "as is", without warranty of any kind, express or
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implied, including but not limited to the warranties of merchantability, fitness
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for a particular purpose, and noninfringement. In no event shall the authors or
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copyright holders be liable for any claim, damages, or other liability, whether
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in an action of contract, tort or otherwise, arising from, out of, or in
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connection with the software or the use or other dealings in the software.
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# Contributing
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To contribute to this project please contact neale@woozle.org
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https://id.arduino.cc/neale
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# BOM
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In addition to a key, some hookup wires, and a USB cable,
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you only need a USB-capable Arduino: see above.
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Since I don't know what might try to parse this section,
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I'm calling for an Arduino Micro. But, really, many options
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will work fine.
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| ID | Part name | Part number | Quantity |
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| --- | ------- | ------ | ------ |
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| A1 | Seeeduino XIAO | 102010328 | 1 |
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